Alvarinho: the white grape of northern Portugal

Alvarinho is a white grape from north-west Iberia. In Portugal it grows mostly along the River Minho, in the Vinho Verde region, and its heartlands are Monção and Melgaço. In Spain the same grape is called Albariño. The wines are fragrant, fresh and high in acidity.

What is Alvarinho?

Wines of Portugal calls Alvarinho one of Portugal's finest and most characterful grapes, and one of the first to be bottled as a single variety. It grows mostly along the River Minho, right up in the north of the Vinho Verde region. Monção and Melgaço, the northernmost Vinho Verde sub-regions, are its famous heartlands.

Compared with other Vinho Verde, Alvarinho makes richer wines with more alcohol. The vines are vigorous, but the yield is low, the bunches small and the grapes very pippy.

Wines of Portugal also notes that Monção e Melgaço is the only Vinho Verde sub-region protected from the direct Atlantic influence. Its climate is both maritime and continental, which suits fuller-bodied wines.

What does Alvarinho taste like?

Wines of Portugal lists peach, lemon, passion fruit, lychee, orange zest, jasmine, orange blossom and lemon balm. Wine Folly describes it as dry, light-bodied and without tannins, with high acidity, flavours of lemon zest, grapefruit, honeydew and nectarine, and a saline finish. Its alcohol runs from 11.5% to 13.5% ABV in Wine Folly's profile.

Our own bottles show a few variations on the theme.

• Quinta d Amares Alvarinho has citrus and lemony nuances, an aroma of tropical fruit and flowers with a touch of tangerine, and a complex, balanced structure with prolonged freshness.
• Quinta d Amares Loureiro e Alvarinho pairs the two great Vinho Verde grapes in a fresh, structured white with floral notes and tropical fruit.
• Azevedo Loureiro e Alvarinho is bright with a young greenish tinge, an expansive nose of ripe mango, nectarine and ripe citrus, and fruit on the palate supported by balanced acidity.

For a comparison, the Alvarinho Tasting Box 12 Bottles holds twelve bottles of different Alvarinho wines: six Muralhas, three Soalheiro Allo and three Azevedo Alvarinho Trajadura. See more whites in the white wine collection.

Is Alvarinho the same as Albariño?

Yes, they are the same grape. Wine Folly's guide is titled "Albariño (Alvarinho)", and Wines of Portugal ties the grape to Portugal's north. Spanish producers use Albariño, mainly in Galicia, and Portuguese producers use Alvarinho.

Three differences are worth knowing.

The label. Wine Folly points out that it is common to see "Albariño" on Spanish labels, unlike other areas that label by region. In Portugal, the region (Vinho Verde, Monção e Melgaço) often comes first.

The area. Wine Folly gives about 5,393 hectares of Albariño in Rías Baixas in Galicia, and about 2,860 hectares in the Minho and Vinho Verde in Portugal.

The style. Both countries traditionally prioritise freshness, though Wine Folly says a few producers age it in oak for added complexity. Wines of Portugal says Monção and Melgaço Alvarinho tends to be richer and higher in alcohol than other Vinho Verde.

Beyond that, taste a few and compare. Producer and vintage change the picture more than the border does.

What food goes with Alvarinho?

Wines of Portugal lists shellfish, white fish, white-meat stews, salads, light pasta and sushi and sashimi. Wine Folly adds ceviche, oysters, mussels and clams, soft cheeses and fresh green herbs.

Serve it cold. Wine Folly suggests 3 to 7 degrees C in a white wine glass, with no need to decant.

Does Alvarinho age?

Opinions vary with the wine. Wines of Portugal says Alvarinho is delicious young but can age well, often for ten years or more. Wine Folly suggests a cellar life of three to five years. Both can be true: a simple bottle is made to be enjoyed soon, and a more structured one has more time.

Why is it a harder grape to grow?

Wine Folly says Albariño grapes are tiny with thick skins. That makes them less efficient to grow commercially, because yields are lower and harvesting takes more labour. The skins also give the wine a slight raw-almond or citrus-pith bitterness.

Most vineyards look different, too. Vines are trellised overhead on pergolas. Wine Folly adds that some of the oldest Albariño vines are said to be up to 300 years old, though most are much younger.

How do you choose between the bottles?

Start with the grape mix. A single-grape Alvarinho such as the Quinta d Amares shows the variety at its clearest, with lemon and tropical fruit. A Loureiro and Alvarinho blend adds floral notes and softens the structure. If you cannot decide, the tasting box lets you compare several producers side by side, with the same grape in each glass.

Frequently asked questions

How do you pronounce Alvarinho?

Wine Folly gives the pronunciation of the Spanish form, Albariño, as "alba-reen-yo".

Is Alvarinho dry?

Yes, generally. Wine Folly classes the grape as dry with high acidity. Some Vinho Verde wines have a slight sweetness, so check the producer's notes.

Where is Alvarinho grown?

Mostly in north-west Iberia. In Portugal that means the Vinho Verde region, especially Monção and Melgaço. In Spain it means Galicia, notably Rías Baixas.

Is Alvarinho the same as Vinho Verde?

No. Vinho Verde is a region and style. Alvarinho is one of the grapes grown there, together with Loureiro, Arinto, Avesso, Azal and Trajadura.

Sources

• Wines of Portugal: Alvarinho
• Wines of Portugal: Vinho Verde
• Wine Folly: Albariño (Alvarinho)
• Product pages at garrafeiradailha.com for tasting notes, grapes and regions of the wines named above.

Please enjoy wine responsibly and in moderation. Our wines are sold only to people aged 18 or over. For facts about alcohol, visit drinkaware.ie.